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How to Treat Your Models – Gary Cole

Posted on: 03-17-2016 Posted in: Photography

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In previous blogs we’ve talked about the importance of treating your models with kindness, consideration and respect. And yet I continue to hear mini-horror stories from models about some of their bad experiences with photographers. So let’s hitch up our big-boy (or girl) professional pants and go back over some of the basics of appropriate behavior when dealing with models.

Rule 1 – Make certain the model understands what she is going to be asked to do in the shooting and if and how much she will be paid. Don’t assume a model is going to be ok with nudity unless you’ve specifically told her nudity is required long before the shoot. Also, make certain she knows what the images are going to be used for: an honest-to-goodness paying assignment, a speculative assignment, self promotion, etc. Will she be able to obtain some of the images for her own self-promotion?

“Check the laws in your state because there are a few where the age of consent is more than 18.”If a model release needs to be signed, do it before the shoot rather than after. This is also the right time to photograph the model’s photo ID (which you previously told her to bring) that shows she is at least 18 years old. Check the laws in your state because there are a few where the age of consent is more than 18.

Rule 2 – Make certain she knows where to be and when and what to bring with her. Do you want her to bring wardrobe and accessories? Will she be doing her own makeup? Should she come to the shoot with her makeup already on? My suggestion is that models come to the shoot with no makeup on? I remember that Franco Rubartelli always insisted he see his models with no make up. And more than a few times, he shot them just that way and made them look so natural and beautiful. How long is the shooting likely to take? Is she responsible for the cost of her transportation to the shooting and back home?

“Make the model feel beautiful, comfortable and secure. Anyone in front of the camera needs to feel comfortable. That means you need to project an aura of confidence and competence.”Rule 3 – Make the model feel beautiful, comfortable and secure. Anyone in front of the camera needs to feel comfortable. That means you need to project an aura of confidence and competence. It also means you need to be prepared, have an idea of what you are going to try to do in the shoot, have everything you need working and at hand. If there are other people in the shoot, make sure you have introduced everyone and created a relaxed atmosphere. Have some water or refreshments handy.

If you’re working more than four hours, make some arrangements for food to keep everyone’s energy up. Don’t forget to take breaks, allow the model to move around, stretch, relax. At Playboy, we once had a photographer who kept his model in the same pose for so long that she had a terrible back spasm and we had to call 911 and have her taken to the hospital. It’s easy in our eagerness as photographers to get “the shot” to forget the feelings of the person on the other side of the camera. Be aware, be encouraging, be positive and if you’re frustrated with what you’re not getting, keep it to yourself.

About Gary Cole

gary320about

Gary Cole was the Director of Photography and Senior VP of Playboy Enterprises for over 30 years. During that time he managed the acquisition of all photography for Playboy and supervised photographers and production staff, studios (Chicago and Los Angeles), film and digital labs and photo archives. He has established and continues to maintain relationships with leading photographers from around the world as well as Playboy’s numerous international editions. He has extensive experience in approaching and negotiating agreements with celebrity talent from movies and TV and was involved in all creative aspects of the magazine. In addition, Gary served as Editorial Director of playboy.com in its formative years. He has twice been included in American Photo’s list of the 100 Most Important People in Photography.

Gary also served as Playboy’s Sports Editor for nearly 25 years and has written over 50 major articles for the magazine on college football and basketball as well as pro football. He selected Playboy’s prestigious Playboy All-America teams and has acted as on-camera expert on numerous College Football Preview television shows, all nationally syndicated on major networks. He continues to be an accredited voter for the annual Heisman Trophy Award and was the 2002 recipient of the Jim Murray Outstanding Sportswriter Award by the All-American Football Foundation.

Gary continues to write sports and travel articles for various media as well as his on-going blog “The Business of Photography” for STC. He also mentors photographers, reviews portfolios and websites and makes appearances at STC seminars and workshops and is happy to serve STC as its Photo Editor Emeritus.

Rule 4 – Unless the model happens to already be your girlfriend or your wife, DO NOT USE YOUR SHOOTING AS AN EXCUSE TO COME ON TO THE MODEL. It’s unprofessional and terrible for your reputation. It means you are not focusing on getting the best images. It puts the model in a terrible spot at a moment when she is most vulnerable. At its worst, it could be illegal. If your model is doing nudity, you should be even more sensitive to the situation. In over 30 years of working at Playboy, I never walked onto a nude set or location without:

  • (1) having a specific reason for being there
  • (2) without asking the model’s permission or asking the photographer to ask her permission. It doesn’t matter that the model may have absolutely no reservations about being nude in any situation. It’s just the right thing to do, the respectful thing to do. Needless to say, this also applies to anyone not directly working on the shooting. No gawkers!

“If you promised the model photos from the shoot, make sure she gets them. If she was supposed to have been paid, make certain she is paid. If you are testing a girl, the follow up is the time to offer constructive criticism.”Rule 5 – Follow up. If you promised the model photos from the shoot, make sure she gets them. If she was supposed to have been paid, make certain she is paid. If you are testing a girl, the follow up is the time to offer constructive criticism. As you can imagine, we had to reject many girls we tested for Playmate. I wasn’t reluctant to tell a model that she would photograph better if she lost or added a few pounds, needed more time in the gym, perhaps should think about changing her hair color or style. Often, upon rejection, models would ask if I thought plastic surgery or botox would make a difference.

I always said something to the effect:

The decision to have plastic surgery is a personal decision and shouldn’t be based on your aspirations as a model for Playboy or anyone else. And, if you do decide to have plastic surgery (breast enhancement, nose job), check out the credentials of the surgeon very carefully and don’t go overboard thinking you want the most for your money.”

I’ve seen more girls destroy their chances for a modeling career with bad plastic surgery as I’ve seen girls improve their chances. And I never told a girl that she had no chance in the modeling business even if that’s what was in my mind when I looked at her photos.

First of all, I could be wrong. There were many cases at Playboy when we rejected a girl as Playmate who came back a year later and was accepted and published. Secondly, everyone deserves to have their dream even if it never comes true. If a girl doesn’t have the physical attributes to become a model, she’ll figure out for herself at some point.

That’s just five rules. Your common sense and awareness of the situations you work in will likely dictate several more. If you haven’t already, attend an STC seminar (the next one is April 2-3 in Miami) to see first-hand how our master photographers interact with the beautiful models who will be working the seminar.

~Gary Cole

 

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